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Horse Care

Owning a horse involved many things. You have to make sure you are fulfilling all the needs of your horse. Though mainly people understand the basics involved such as providing a proper shelter, food and exercise, there are other things your horse will need that you should be aware of. Proper management ensures a content and healthy horse.

Horse Care

Horse Care

For your horse to be both mentally and physically healthy you must take into consideration many often hard to become aware of aspects of being a dependable horse owner. Horses cannot be kept in a stable all day; they need daily exercise and some time out as well. Horses kept indoors all day are prone to developing psychological problems and destructive vices such as cribbing, weaving, wall kicking, eating feces and tail chewing. Allowing your horse some free time in a meadow will help him to let off steam. By doing so he is less likely to become sour or nappy. Letting your horse frolic and play also reduces the likelihood of him acting up while you’re on his back! Make sure you give your horse with the best quality feed and hay you can afford.

Supplements are also important and your vet should be able to counsel you what to add to your horse’s diet. Your horse’s dietary needs will change throughout his life so make sure you research what your horse’s particular needs are. If your horse is boarded at a professional facility the stable owner or manager will be able to advise you. Your horse’s teeth will need to be examined on a regular basis particularly as he gets older. Horses’ teeth become damaged with time and problems can develop and cause considerable pain resulting in the horse being unable to eat or tolerate having a bit in his mouth. more…

Horse Obesity Control tips | Pets

A big heavy horse just like the front row of a rugby team might be heavy because of muscle. However if that excess weight and bulk is due to fat, then you need to be concerned. Epidemiological studies and statistics indicate that overweight horses are a growing problem, reflecting the same trend in people and other domestic animals.

With that mindset I’ve compiled a list of 10 nutritional tips to help you

avoiding obesity in your horse

tips for obesity control in your horse

maintain your horse’s weight at all times, no matter what activity it might be doing.

1.    Reduce calories not bulk; all horses should eat a minimum of 2.5% of their bodyweight as food, (includes hay, chaff, and bucket feed. Restricting intake to less, means your horse is at greater risk of developing: gastric ulcers, stereotypy behaviour, colic, and dental problems. Soak hay for 12hrs if you cannot get hold of oat or barley straw. This removes most of the

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calories, horse exercise, ponie, horse training, horse product, horse metabolism

nutrition especially the calories, making it the horse equivalent of celery. You can then feed ‘adlib’ satisfying the horse’s need for trickle feeding. BUT make sure you add the vits and mins back in by using a balancer, supplement or special vit/min treats

2.    The number of calories, he eats needs to be less than the number of calories he uses. Increase the amount of work he does, borrow a jockey, lunge, ride and lead if you have 2 horses and only time to ride

Category › Pets

Title › Controlling obesity in your horse | Pets

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3.    Most horses resting, retired or in light work will
consume excess calories just from grazing. Ignore the traditional advice of 1 horse/acre and overgraze the paddock with a minimum of 3-4 horses/acre, (make sure you pick up droppings and pull ragwort).You will be surprised just how little grass cover is needed to maintain weight on your horse.  Horses and ponies don’t get fat on ‘fresh air’; they get fat on grass.

4.    If you cannot ‘overgraze’ your grass with other horses, keep it cut; think how often the garden lawn needs cutting, your horse is consuming all this!

5.    Rather than strip graze, put an electric fence in a u shape around the field so that the water is at the opposite end to the gate. This will increase the amount of exercise your horse has to do and therefore he will use more calories.

6.    Weight loss must be slow and does not require you to ‘starve’ your horse. Rapid weight loss or restriction of food will lead to high blood fat or a reduced metabolism making subsequent weight loss more difficult. If your horse is obese, (20% over his optimum weight, then it will take at least a year to shift the weight)

7.    It might be tedious but weigh any food you are giving including hay or haylage the first time you use the products. If the advice is to feed 500 g a day of a balancer then find a yogurt pot or similar that holds 250 gm . This means that you will not be tempted to sneak the ¼ scoop up to ½ scoop!!

8.    Take a photo on a monthly basis; you don’t notice weight changes when you see your horse every day. Weigh using a scientifically validated weight tape fortnightly at the same time of day and fat score at the same time. Keep a diary of the changes.

9.    Consider a muzzle. Horses standing in a stable use considerably less calories compared to those out moving around.

10.    Remember that steady but active walking burns up more fat than trotting or canter work. Ensure that your horse gets at least ½ hr per day of brisk walk. Exercise is also protective against insulin resistance for both horses and humans.

Bonus Tips

11.    Leave that rug off. Horses use 80% of their feed energy to keep warm. Insulate them with a rug and the extra calories will go on their back as fat

12.    Remember that calories are energy and energy is calories. If you have a cuddly laid back horse, he doesn’t need extra calories to give him energy. Extra calories = more weight gain.

Got a question about equine nutrition? Feel free to ask them via the comment section and I’ll kindly answer them as soon as possible.

Pony Breeds

Looking for the perfect pony? Who isn’t? Good ponies-those who can teach kids the ropes when it comes to horsemanship-are said to be worth their weight in gold.

What exactly is a pony, by definition? How does it differ from what we call a horse? Well, a pony is, in fact, a horse. Ponies are a sub-classification of light horses, which are those used for riding. The main difference between a pony and a horse is that a pony is under 14.2 hands. To this end, just about any horse who meets the height requirement can be shown in pony classes. However, there are certain breeds where all the individuals registered must meet pony requirements. These are called pony breeds.

Like other horse breeds, pony breeds vary in size, color, and gait.

Shetland

While this breed originated in the British Isles, it is now quite popular here in the United States. The Shetland has the distinction of being the smallest of the ponies. While it is certainly possible to learn to ride on a well-trained Shetland pony, their small stature means they are quickly outgrown. They also have a fairly bumpy gait, which makes them not so ideal for riding. But don’t worry, American Shetland ponies have certainly found their niche! As very fancy driving ponies, you can usually find them pulling carts, carriages and buggies. One of the best things about Shetland ponies is that they are able to grow really thick winter coats. To this end, they are ideal ponies for people in cold climates. According to breed standards, Shetlands can be any color, including multicolored patterns such as the Paint horse.

Welsh

Welsh ponies originated in a part of Great Britain known as Wales. Welsh ponies are considered among the best of the riding ponies, and are known for their smooth gaits and tractable, willing natures. According to breed rules they come in four sizes, which range from 12 to 15 hands. But wait, you say, doesn’t a pony have to be under 14.2 hands in order to be classified as a pony? Good catch! In fact, three of the sizes are actually pony sizes. Horses of the largest Welsh size are considered “cobs,” or small horses. A cob can be just about perfect for a rider who has outgrown their pony, but is still too small for a horse. Because of this the versatile Welsh pony breed is not only ideal for children, but many adults on the small side have enjoyed Welsh cobs as well!

POA

POA stands for Pony of the Americas. This breed was founded in the United States in 1956. Original POAs were developed by cross-breeding Shetland Ponies with Appaloosa horses, as well as Quarter Horses and Arabians. POAs share the breed characteristics of their founding stock, and range in height from 11.2 hands to 13.2 hands. Because of their Appaloosa heritage, they come in a wide variety of coat patterns. POAs work well for both riding and driving.

Connemara

The Connemara is an Irish pony that has Arabian horses in its ancestry. Connemaras are known for being one of the taller pony breeds, as many of them stand in the 14.2-hand range. Connemaras are often gray or black, although registry rules also allow them to be brown, bay, or dun. Connemaras have very smooth gaits, are willing learners, and are often very athletic. They excel in a wide variety of disciplines, from riding to driving, and are well-suited to both children and driving adults. more…

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